Ushuaia--"El Fin Del Mundo"

Today I am wrapping up four full days in Ushuaia, Argentina, the self proclaimed "city at the end of the world." Unofficially, Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world, although there are some Chilean towns to the south of us. It definitely feels like the end of the world, since it doesn't get completely dark here until after midnight! I have spent several of my days here lazing around, taking care of errands (like all this sudden blog posting!), and enjoying the Argentine food. Ushuaia is known for its king crab, which I have dined on twice--once in a soup with muscles and vegetables, and once smothered in parmesan cheese and a creamy sauce! On the other hand, I have eaten a lot of ham and cheese and pb&j sandwiches to account for these lavish (though not expensive by American standards) meals.

The weather here is a bit tempermental, as all the clouds in the pictures reveal. I have been caught in several downpours, and it is very chilly! This did not prevent me from going on a horseback riding excursion on Friday in the mountains behind Ushuaia. I don't really like horseback riding and I definitely do not trust horses, but horses are such a huge part of the culture of Patagonia that I felt that I needed to participate in this activity. They always say that horses match their rider's personality, and mine definitely did! He had a huge appetite, and every time we stopped he would yank the reins out of my hands so he could reach the grass at his feet. He even ate the branches of trees as we passed! He also did not appreciate me telling him what to do, but I found if I compromised by allowing him a bite and then pulling the reins in the direction I wanted to go, we got along better. He also liked to break into a trot without warning, especially as we got closer to "home." I came to enjoy this activity, although I was not great at keeping my balance and always felt like I would bump off the side of the horse! Our guide was awesome, and had me translate his Spanish for the group, which I could do okay. We also got to ride the horses across a river, and the water came up to their tummies! I was really scared at first, but there was a girl riding with us who was more scared than me and I ended up comforting and encouraging her, which helped me work through my own fear. As such, I ended up having a great time on our two-hour ride. I also feel like you have to just trust your horse and hope for the best. Once I let go of the fear, I enjoyed myself immensely! It's good for me to try to relax and face my fears more. Between rafting, the volcano and now horses, I am doing a lot of growth down here! Now maybe it is time to confront some of my more ominous fears, like being in a relationship or making a decision about my career! Ha!

A view of Ushuaia from atop my horse.
The Beagle Channel.

Me and my hungry hungry horse.

Looking back towards Ushuaia from the beach we stopped on.

Yesterday I took advantage of what seemed like good weather and ventured to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fugeo. It is prettymuch right on the edge of Ushuaia, and has several great day hikes. I undertook two, the Pampa Alta, a short hike which led me up to a view of the Beagle Channel, and the Senda Costera, a three-hour hike along the coast of the Beagle Channel. All in all, I spent about 5 hours hiking about 13 kilometers. It was exhausting, as the Pampa Alta was almost entirely uphill, and the Costera hike led me up and over the smaller hills along the shoreline. I am definitely feeling it today! But it felt so good to get out in nature and use my body to propel me forward. I was completely alone on the Pampa Alta, and was able to work it so that my solitude was rarely disturbed on the Senda Costera. Unfortunately, just as I was starting to tire out toward the last 40 minutes of my hike, I got caught in the middle of a downpour that didn't abate until the early hours this morning. I had left my rain jacket in the hostel, so by the time I reached the pick-up point, I was drenched, freezing and cranky. I talked my way onto a bus that I did not have a ticket for and I must have looked like a pathetic drowned rat, because the bus driver let me ride for free! It ended up being a great day, though, and I was pleased with myself for undertaking a more athletic adventure.

A baby horse that surprised me with its mother as I began the Pampa Alta hike.

View of the Beagle Channel from the top of Pampa Alta.

Views of the Beagle Channel from the beginning of my hike along the Senda Costera.

Patagonia is full of beautiful birds! This guy looked much more organge in real life.

A gorgeous view of the coast.

Animal sighting of the day: this beautiful bird and its six babies!

The other of the pair.

Another view of the brilliant colors of my hike along the coast.

After the hike, I prettymuch laid low and read a book. I woke up this morning to see the mountains I had spent all day staring at on my hike were covered with a fresh blanket of snow. For a moment, I got into the Christmas spirit! My hostel, however, crushed those warm feelings. It is a huge backpacker hostel with something like 100 beds, so it feels very impersonal. The common spaces are not very comfy or welcoming. I will be looking for something a little more intimate in my next town.

I snapped these pictures of the freshly fallen snow on the mountains from my dorm, which for all its drawbacks has incredible views!

I am heading out tomorrow at 5 am on a 12-hour bus to Rio Gallegos, a Patagonian city to the north. As much as crossing the borders is a hassle (and I have to do it twice tomorrow!), it is nice to have the opportunity to stretch my legs and use the bathroom. I am going to be spending Christmas in some smaller towns in Argentine Patagonia. Happy holidays!