Thursday, February 5, 2009

Salar de Uyuni--Part I

The day after my mine tour, I embarked on a three-day tour into the Salar de Uyuni, a stunning and unique place just over the Chilean border in Bolivia. The tour itself, however, was one of the most frustrating experiences of my life.

I was off to a rocky start to begin with, as within the first hour we had to go through immigration. I had heard from several sources that since I have a Chilean identity card, I could enter Bolivia without the obligatory visa (and $135 visa fee) required of all Americans. This was a bold-faced lie, and the border patrol were not happy with me, even though I explained my situation and included the little fact that the tour operated I had bought the trip from had told me everything would be fine. I have never been treated the way I was treated by the immigraiton police. I felt like I was a criminal. They were incredibly hostile to me, and I did not feel welcomed at all. I now that the process for entering the US is also not in the realm of arms wide open, and having gone through something like this on probably a smaller scale, I can now empathize. For me, it was an intimidating process. But finally they allowed me to enter, after giving my passport to my tour guide and insisting I visit immigration in the town of Uyuni when I arrived.

I was kind of pissed that our tour operators hadn't been overseeing the immigration process to begin with in case I needed help, which I obviously did. Then, since I was the only American on our tour, while I was dicking around with immigration, the remaining 10 people on my tour were bonding in the bus. The guide had me sit up front with him to make sure I wasn't upset, so I missed out on more time with the group. It ended up being okay, because we stopped for breakfast and I had time to redeem myself, but by that time I guess the guide had decided he had a little crush on me, because for the rest of the damn day, he would not leave me alone. He also decided to give me advice on my future, telling me I should open a private institute in Chile (even after I clearly told him I am not interested in teaching any more) and telling me I should marry a South American. I cannot stand when people assume they know what is best for me after knowing me for an insignificant amount of time, and I started to get really irritated. Unfortunately, since I was the last one on the bus, I had to sit in the very last row with the backpacks (isolating me from the group yet again), and of course the only remaining seat, right next to me, was for the guide. I even made up a fake Chilean boyfriend so he would get the hint and leave me the eff alone, but all attempts at diversion failed.

However, things began to improve as we went further into the park. Our first stop was at Lago Esmerelda, a beautiful sea-green lake beneath an imposing volcanic peak. The color was unreal.

Posing awkwardly in front of Lago Esmerelda.
Volcanic terrain.
Our tour group, which included an Israeli, a Frenchman, a Swede, a Belgian, five Brazilians, and an Italian.
Vicuñas (endangered, I believe).
Our track into the high plain, bordered by spectacular extinct volcanos.
We next stopped at a natural hot spring. I chose not to participate, because I hate changing out of a damp swimsuit. I knew we wouldn't stay at the spring long enough to make the struggle worth it, and I also did not want to parade around in my swimsuit in front of the guide. I did sit along the edge and dip my hands in, and the water was deliciously warm and clear. The guide apparently thought it would be cute to try and splash me to get me to come in, so I retreated and took pictures of the surrounds.
The hot spring feeding out onto the plain.
Next we stopped at some geysers, which were not very active since it was later in the day. We were about 5,200 meters (something like 17,000 feet, I believe) above sea level, and this proved to be our highest elevation of the trip. I frequently found myself gasping for air. It was a bit unnerving.
Geysers.
After the geysers, we began our descent into Lago Colorado, where we would be staying for the night. The site was amazing--a salt lake colored orange in places by minerals, surrounded by volcanos, and filled with flamingos! It was spectacular!
Approaching Lago Colorado.

A flamingo stretching its wings.
Spectacular!
We stayed in these little one-storey structures made out of mud bricks, and man, was it cold. We were at about 4,280 meters above sea-level, so breathing continued to be a challenge. Our lodging was right off the lake, though, so we ate a (very late) lunch and then I had about three hours to walk on a trail that went part of the way around the lake. Hiking along next to flocks of flamingos and at one point through a herd of llama was an unforgettable experience. There was also a lookout point that I climbed up to. The wind was icy, but I stuck it out for as long as possible because flamingos are more likely to take flight at dusk, and I wanted to see some of them flying. Then, I hurried back to the lodge, trying to beat the dark. I arrived back at the lodge with a killer headache, which at first I thought was caused by the cold but later realized was a symptom of altitude sickness. I struggled through dinner and then put my pajamas on and tried to sleep. Everyone else, of course, was partying, including our guide, who tried to convince me that whiskey was a great cure. This really irritated me, since one of the first things they tell you about altitude sickness is to avoid liquor. I was so over his garbage. So, sleeping was a struggle because my head was pounding all night, and another symptom of altitude sickness is insomnia, so I woke up every hour or so. However, it was a small price to pay for the sights of the day.

Llama mama and baby, and another llama pal.

The scene from the viewpoint.
The herd I walked through. I serioulsy thought they were going to eat me. It was scary.
Eee! Flamingos!

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