Our Tours Through the Lakes District--Argentina to Chile

For Becca's and my third and final day in Bariloche, we decided to take a tour that just about everyone recommended to us. It was a combination of three mini-hikes in the nearby national park, and the final hike was to the Black Glacier, which turned out to be exactly what its name implies. Our morning started with a quick stop after we entered the national park to poke around a lake, field and river. Becca and I took many photos with the brilliant blue water (remember that Crayola named cerulean? I have now seen that color in nature). The river was so clear that, standing on the bridge, I could look down and see trout in the water. Next, we spent about an hour hiking to a waterfall that had three different pools. We got to view the waterfall from three different viewpoints. It was really pretty, but I was suffering a major low bloodsugar when we arrived, which somewhat diminished my enjoyment of the sights. The hike itself was pretty, too. There were bursts of yellow wildflowers at many points along the trail, and we could see part of Mount Tronador, where the Black Glacier was located--well, the part that wasn't hidden by the clouds. Our guide, Diego, was great. He stopped us at many points along the way and provided helpful and interesting information about the area. It was obvious that he loved his job and really cared about protecting the environment he worked in. He was one of the best guides I have ever had assist me on a tour.

Mountain, trees and field.
Standing by the cerulean water.
A gorgeous waterfall.
After stopping for lunch (and eating the worst, gristly hamburger of my life), we went on our second mini-hike to another little waterfall. Along the way, we got to traverse a labyrinth of lush, green bamboo, which apparently during winter forms a tunnel under the snow. Diego informed us that a big joke was to move the bamboo over your friend's head so all the snow would fall down on him. This sounded like something I wanted to try on Becca, but alas, it was summer. It was interesting to find bamboo in South America, but apparently it is a native species. The waterfall was cute but not overwhelmingly amazing. I could see how it had potential during the spring thaw. We also got to view a river of snowmelt, with crystal clear waters, mingling with a river of glacier melt, which is milky in color. The two rivers were very distinct when they first met, until the blended together farther along.

Becca treks through the Green Labyrinth of bamboo.
Hanging out with a waterfall.
Crossing a bridge that could only hold three at a time.
Finally, the best part of the day: the Black Glacier. The hike to it was very brief and pretty, and provided a view of the valley below. The Black Glacier itself was awesome. It looked like pure evil. We kept joking about being on Mordor. Apparently, the glacier grinds through the earth such that the earth comes up over the top of it, turning it black in color. Another source of the blackness was landslides. Diego performed a mini-demonstration by throwing a small chunk of glacial ice into the dirt and showing us how it turned black. The best part of our time at the glacier was (aside from a Lord-of-the-Rings-tribute photoshoot) was simply sitting and staring at the glacier. We could see up the mountain to the parts of the glacier that weren't black yet. Also, the mountain got its name, Mount Tronador, or "Thunderer," because huge blocks of ice crash off the sides of the mountain, creating the sound of thunder. We were able to witness this event several times. The long busride back to Bariloche gave us time to relax, and after another dinner of pasta and beer, we tucked ourselves into bed.

Our guide Diego explains something about the glacier.
Becca and me at the Black Glacier.
Close-up contrast of joy and evil!

The next day, we got up early to start our "Seven Lakes" cruise across the Andes into Chile! The title was a bit of a misnomer, since we only crossed three lakes, but it was a beautiful day. After our first, early morning ride across the lake next to Bariloche, we spent about an hour on the beach. I chased a butterfly with my camera, and Becca sat on a log and enjoyed the peacefulness of the Andes. Then, after a brief busride, we boarded the second catamaran and cruised for 20 minutes on a lake of glacial milk, encountering Mount Tronador as we creeped toward the shore. After exiting out of Argentina, we hopped out next bus and crossed into Chile! We got another view of the mountain from the Chilean side.

How can I explain my excitement at returning to Chile after a month away? We stopped at the border to horse around and take pictures, and at one moment, I kind of teared up. It really did feel like a homecoming. I knew I had missed Chile, but the extent of my yearning wasn't quite clear until I was back in. It was such a relief to know I was going back to a place where I knew how things worked, where I had connections and people that I loved and loved me. After this experience, I can't imagine the emotions I will have when I return to the US.

We stopped in the tiny town of Peulla, went through customs, ate lunch at one of the two hotels that made up the entirety of Peulla, and then layed under a tree until it was time to depart. Our final, nearly two-hour boat ride, was a bit frustrating. We passed two volcanos, including Volcan Osorno, a beautiful, snow-capped, perfectly formed crater. However, it was really hazy and we could barely see the volcano. Also, the inside of the boat was too hot, but staying outside was a bit of a hassle in the wind. Becca and I were both ready to arrive in Puerto Varas and relax, so we were kind of over it.

Exploring the beach.
Contemplating the surrounds from our catamaran.
Mount Tronodor as we creep up to it in our boat.
Becca with Mount Tronodor, as seen from the Chilean side of the mountains--she's pointing it out in case you don't know what you should be looking at!
The end of the line--we disembark in Chile!
Once in Puerto Varas, we settled into a really cute and comfortable hostel. After a quick dinner, again, we went straight to bed. Our busy vacation together was coming to an end, and we were exhausted.